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The Best Autumn 2022 Collections from Paris Haute Couture Week
July 10, 2022
To say that the Autumn 2022 Paris Haute Couture Week was eventful is an understatement! The biggest haute couture houses laid out some of the most fascinating looks on the runway. There were Viktor & Rolf's sculptures suits—a testament to the Dutch design duo's excellent tailoring. John Galliano's theatrical collection for Maison Margiela was also revolutionary both in design and display. And of course, Chanel's signature nonchalant elegance never fails to showcase Parisian chic at its finest. After such a fabulous week, there's no denying that Paris still reigns supreme when it comes to haute couture.
“Meta Morphism” is the perfect name for Iris Van Herpen's autumn 2022 haute couture collection. Her style has certainly transformed over the years and this show definitely proved it! The Dutch designer, known for her signature 3D creations and excellent craftsmanship, explored different haute couture techniques this time. Of course, her iconic avant-garde artistry was still there, but it was intermingled with exquisite draping and notable tailoring. The first look alone was beautifully draped, you wouldn't think it was by Iris van Heren at first glance. And the floor-length evening coat model Winnie Harlow wore had more traditional couture elements to it.
Season after season, Daniel Roseberry never fails to prove his worth as an exemplary couturier. In his autumn 2022 collection for the famed haute couture house, Schiaparelli, the American designer offered up an extraordinary homage to the surrealist named Elsa. Her quirks and avant-garde fancies were all there, sure, but it's the silhouettes, the tailoring, and the craftsmanship that screamed “Schiaparelli!” The stand-out look of a black velvet corseted number is a great example. With its Joan Crawford shoulders and marabou-feathered hat and stole, it looked like it could've been designed by the Italian couturier herself. But then, the exposed breasts and taped nipples added a risque 21st-century touch.
Source: Schiaparelli YouTube Channel
Is there any designer more theatrical than John Galliano? From his extravagant showings in Dior back in the late 90s and early 2000s to this more rebellious streak at Maison Margiela, the Spanish designer never lost his signature theatricality. This season, however, for his autumn 2022 show at Paris Haute Couture Week, it's as if he sent his theatricalism on overdrive. Presented via a stage play, complete with sets and pros and the models mouthing the lines dubbed by a dramatic recording, he laid out a 1950s-inspired collection that was signature Galliano. Fashion historians would undoubtedly recognize the vintage opulence from his days in Dior, but they were constructed and deconstructed in a way that only a designer of Maison Margiela can!
Source: Maison Margiela YouTube Channel
Naomi Cambell, Nicole Kidman, Kim Kardashian, and Dua Lipa. These are just some of the big names that walked the runway at Balenciaga's autumn 2022 show at Paris Haute Couture Week. The haute couture house was never shy about dressing celebrities, especially when it comes to prestigious red carpet events like the Oscars, the Met Gala, or the Cannes Film Festival. However, for them to enlist such star power for their runway show means this collection really must be something. And it is! The label's 51st couture offering has everything you would want in haute couture but is maximized by around 200%. There were excellent tailored looks, shimmering red carpet dresses, and huge ballgowns. It was a joy to see!
Source: Balenciaga YouTube Channel
Paris couturiers and London tailors be damned! Viktor & Rolf is out to prove that the Dutch are slowly getting to their level when it comes to cutting a mean suit! Following up their spring 2022 couture collection, this latest autumn 2022 show was another lesson on excellent couture tailoring. And while they elongated the shoulders last season since they were inspired by Nosferatu, this time around, they exaggerated the lapels. The result was arguably better than spring 2022! While the last collection made the women look almost cartoonish, this season gave them more freedom to look empowered, seduce with a little skin, and retain their elegant edginess.
At first, it's easy to think that Olivier Rousteing of Balmain and Jean Paul Gaultier are two French designers who couldn't be further apart from each other. The former is known for his mainstream sexiness and supermodel battalions. The latter, on the other hand, pioneered risque avant-garde fashion in the late 80s and early 90s. Who would've ever thought that a collaboration between the two would look so good? For autumn 2022, Gaultier invited Rousteing to design his label's haute couture collection. It was a perfect marriage of both designers' sensibilities. Through his own masterful craft, Rousteing translated Gautier's outrageous signatures with ease and added a 21st-century twist to them too!
Source: Jean Paul Gaultier YouTube Channel
Inspired by the nightclub scene of the 1920s and 30s, Armani Privé's autumn 2022 collection at Paris Haute Couture Week was a slinky affair. Streamlined silhouettes made up of exquisite draping and controlled tailoring have always been Giorgio Armani's forte. Aside from, of course, showstopping ballgowns that have helped him become a mainstay in celebrity red carpet fashion. These are aesthetics he often goes back to when it comes to haute couture. So much so that many would deem them rather boring and repetitive at this point. This time around, however, everything gelled well. The show was mature and elegant without looking too matronly. It's the perfect day-to-night wardrobe for high society women who can afford these clothes.
Source: Giorgio Armani YouTube Channel
Creative director Virginie Viard opened her autumn 2022 haute couture show for Chanel with a bright green tweed suit. And frankly speaking, that was all you need to know that this was yet another great collection from the haute couture house. Without daily, Viard takes Parisian style staples, many of which were created by Coco Chanel herself, to couture heights. The looks were simple and casual, some would argue to the point that this could have been a ready-to-wear show and none would be the wise. And while that argument does have some ground, the details and the craftsmanship are undeniably elevated. No matter of easy, these were looks that merited their hundred thousand Euro price tags!
Source: Chanel YouTube Channel
Paris Haute Couture Week was a return to form for many of the most beloved fashion houses. Their autumn 2022 collections are bound to start new trends that will influence how people dress from now on.